Posts Tagged ‘bacteria’

Using Microbes to improve your Plants

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009

The great mantra of Organic gardening has been ‘Feed the Soil, and the Soil will feed the Plants’. By feeding the soil they mean adding organic matter, such as compost. However, plants cannot eat organic matter, and they rely in microbes to convert it into a form that they can use. Understanding what these microbes are, how they work, and what they need, is essential to maximise the health of your plants.

In order for a plant to obtain nutrients, the nutrients need to be soluble, and in the immediate are of the roots, the Rhizosphere. This is a conundrum, because if the nutrients are soluble, they can be washed away easily, ending up in groundwater, or water courses. In a healthy soil, it is the soil microbes that act as sponges, using up nutrients to grow, and acting as a reserve. They are like little pockets of plant food. As plants cannot eat microbes either there has to be some sort of recycling of the nutrients, which makes small quantities of this ‘locked up’ food available to plants. Before I explain how this recycling takes place, it’s important to understand a bit about the microbes themselves.

Bacteria

Bacteria are second only to Fungi in the decomposition of organic matter. They reproduce mainly by division, and in ideal conditions, a single bacteria could become  5 billion bacteria within 12 hours. In order to achieve this sort of rate, they need moisture, and a constant supply of food. In the soil,  and in compost, their numbers are limited by predators, chiefly protozoa. The bacteria break down organic matter, taking in Nitrogen, carbon, and other nutrients. They are better at the breakdown of the fresher, ‘green’ elements of a compost heap, or in the soil, than the woody bits. There are species that break down cellulose (Actinomycetes and Cellulomonas).

Bacteria are the principle drivers of the Nitrogen cycle.

A soil fed with compost from grass and straw will favour bacteria over fungi. In the soil, plants that prefer a bacterial dominate soil are annual weeds, and brassicas.

Fungi

Fungi are the principle agents for the breakdown of organic matter. They are particularly successful at utilising woody materials, producing enzymes that can dissolve lignin, and a hard tip to the hypha, which can penetrate hard surfaces. Fungal growth is comparatively rapid. Once a source of food has been located, and ingested, the nutrients are transported along the hypha, and can be used by the organism, elsewhere. As the hyphae are thinner than plant roots, they can penetrate smaller gaps between soil particles, and reach further for nutrients, particularly phosphorus. They also have the ability to chemically unlock the phosphorous from the compounds binding it, and move it around.

Fungi can form associations with the roots of plants for mutual benefit. On the whole, these mycorrhizal fungi associate with trees, shrubs, and other perennial plants. 10-15 disturbances, ploughing/digging, is enough to destroy fungi in the soil, as does soil compaction, and many chemicals, including fertiliser.

Nematodes

Most gardeners know about root feeding nematodes, which damage plants. Some will have heard about nematodes used to kill slugs, but there are also Nematodes that feed on bacteria, fungi, and other nematodes. These are essential to keep a healthy balance in the soil. The nematodes that feed on bacteria and fungi, release nutrients that can be used by plants, think nematode poop. The nematodes that feed on other nematodes, ensure that not all of the bacteria and fungi are eaten. If there are not enough of the other types of nematode, the cannibals cannot survive, and therefore cannot keep the root feeders in check. As nematodes are larger than many of the other microbes, if the soil is compacted, they cannot get to their food source, and will move away, stopping the recycling of nutrients.

Protozoa

Protozoa are massive consumers of bacteria, averaging 10,000 per day. This releases masses of nutrients, which can be used by plants, or by other bacteria, or fungi, to grow. Due to their relative sizes, many bacteria cannot be reached by the protozoa, which are too big to get into the spaces in which bacteria can live. This helps to prevent over grazing. If the bacterial population reduces, the larger protozoa will start to eat the smaller ones, reducing the pressure on the bacteria. Protozoa are important sources of food for worms, and other soil organisms.

Plant Nutrition using Microbes

Once a seed germinates, it sends roots down into the soil. These roots come into contact with soil microbes. As the plant develops leaves, and starts to photosynthesize, it uses the energy from sunlight to change CO2 from the atmosphere, into carbohydrates for energy. Up to 25% of this carbohydrate is secreted by the plant, mainly through the roots. At first this seems like a waste of valuable nutrients, but that’s not true. These sugars, in the Rhizosphere, feed bacteria, and fungi, which use the free energy to multiply, or grow, absorbing Nitrogen, and other nutrients. This doesn’t benefit the plant, but once nematodes and protozoa start to eat the smaller microbes, nutrients are released, which the plant can then use. All of this occurs right next to the roots. In effect, the plant is farming microbes, and benefiting from the process. Where beneficial relationships are formed with fungi, the fungi use the energy from the plant to help it ‘mine’ phosphorous, and other minerals, which it exchanges with the plant. What is interesting is that the same fungus, can associate with many plants, of differing species, each of which can have different surpluses and needs. The fungi act as a sort of sharing mechanism, able to move these between different plants. Truly amazing.

Gardening with Microbes

There are some simple things that you can do to help you to utilise microbes in the garden. Firstly stop, or reduce digging, to allow fungi to develop. Using beds, will help you to stop walking on soil, and reduce compaction, benefiting fungi and predators. For trees, shrubs, and perennials, use wood based compost, such as wood chip, leaf mould, hedge prunings etc. to favour fungal growth. Applying this to the soil surface also suits fungi. For Brassicas, and short lived annuals, use a grass/straw based compost, or animal manure. For grasses or row crops, a mixed fungal/bacterial compost is best. Stop applying chemicals. Most are harmful to microbes, and are therefore just leached away.

In pots, and for sowing seeds, apply compost tea to kickstart the recycling of microbes/nutrients before the plant is able to produce surplus sugars. This should result in better initial growth. Compost Tea can also be used to get a better mix of microbes into soils that have been depleted, providing that there sufficient organic matter has been added.

Working with microbes allows you to benefit from the normal behaviour of billions of tiny creatures, whilst doing less yourself. Working with nature, rather than constantly battling against it.

Good luck with your growing

BB

Anybody interested in learning more about soil microbes should read the book “Teaming with Microbes”, by Jeff Lowenfels and Wayne Lewis. Some of the figure quoted have come from the book.

Compost For Compost Tea Brewers

Sunday, March 29th, 2009

Introduction

One of the questions that I am frequently asked, is “What type of Compost do I need for a Compost Tea Brewer?”. In this article I will discuss the different types of Compost, and how to use them to maximise the potential of your Compost Tea Brewer.

Compost Quality

The first thing to explain is that the quality of your Compost Tea brew, depends on the quality of the Compost that you use. No matter how efficient your Compost Tea Brewer is, if the microbes are not present in the Compost, they won’t be in the Compost Tea. So you need to make good compost to get the most out of your Compost Tea Brewer.

The material out of which your compost is made, and the method that you use, will also effect the type of microbes present in the Compost. Most articles explaining how to make Compost tell you to use a mixture of High carbon (Browns) materials, with high Nitrogen (Greens) materials. This is to help create the conditions for thermophilic bacteria to operate (hot composting). This might not actually be the best solution for Compost Tea. My own reading, and experience,  suggests that Vermicompost (Worm Compost), and Leaf Mould, probably have the highest levels of beneficial microbes. Whilst worm compost tends to be bacterial dominated, and leaf mould tends to be fungal dominated, what they both have in common is that they are both cold composting methods.

Cold Composting

Most people recommend hot composting, as when it is made correctly, the heat generated by the thermophilic (heat generating) bacteria kill off many of the pathogens, and weed seeds. I believe that this is not so important with Compost which is going to be used in a Compost Tea Brewer, especially if the Compost is put into a suitable filter (400 microns is ideal). I don’t know of many weed seeds that are going to sneak through a mesh size of less then half a millimetre, and any pathogens present in the compost should be out competed by the beneficial microbes during the Compost Tea brewing process. The downside of  cold composting is that it takes time, but the upside is that it takes less physical effort.

Compost Materials

Most of the material used in Compost heaps is grass based, such as grass clippings and  straw, or ’soft’ vegetable matter, like vegetable peelings, and annual weeds from the garden. These are principally broken down (eaten) by bacteria. The woodier materials, including leaves, tree prunings, and bark are broken down by fungi. To get good levels of both, you need to use both types of material. However we can keep them separate. If we make leaf mould with our leaves, and build a large wormery for the green materials, we can produce two different composts for two different purposes. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t add ‘green’ waste to your leaf mould, or leaves to your cold compost heap, but we’re not looking to add too much, and certainly not enough to produce lots of heat. Then, if we want a fungal dominated Compost Tea Brew, we use primarily leaf mould. If we want a bacterial dominated brew, we use predominately Vermicompost, and if we want a mixed Compost Tea Brew we have three options. Start with leaf mould, then add the Vermicompost after 24 hours. Mix the leaf mould and Vermicompost at the start of the Compost Tea Brewing process, but keep the bacterial nutrients (molasses) out of the Compost tea Brewer until about 12 hours before application. Make two separate Compost Tea brews, and mix them prior to application. Of the three, I prefer to make two seperate brews, as this gives me the most flexibility. I can use either type of brew, or combine the two. It does mean that you need two Compost Tea Brewers though, so for most people the second option is probably the best.

Getting Started

As Cold Composting takes longer than Hot Composting, we need to cheat a little to get ourselves started. Here are some ideas.

One of the best cheats is to buy some Vermicompost from a worm breeder. Here in the UK, most worm breeders do so to sell worms as fishing bait. Keep your eyes open for signs advertising worms for sale, and then go in and ask to buy some worm castings (Vermicompost), and some Worms. Make sure that the worms that you buy are composting worms. When you get home split the castings into two. Use one lot to start off your own wormery, using the worms that you bought, and use the other to create ‘ready to use’ compost mix. This is how I started my own wormeries. The best bedding material for worms, are their own castings, as the castings contain all of the microbes that the worms need. It gives them a head start. A really good book on the subject is Composting With Worms by George Pilkington. This link tells you about the book.

http://www.eco-logicbooks.com/index.cfm?fa=book_details&book_id=984

Some worm breeders, producing worms for fishing bait, get left with quite a lot of Vermicompost, and sell it reasonably cheaply. Buy as much as you have room for.

Making Leaf Mould is a slow process, sometimes taking two years to complete. In order to speed the process up a little there are some things that you can do. Firstly you should shred all of the leaves. The easiest way to do this is to lay them out in rows, and go over them with a lawnmower, collecting them at the same time. The shredding increases the speed at which the fungi break them down. The heaps should be kept moist, but not turned. too much turning and aeration can harm fungi. You can add some nitrogenous material, either grass clippings, or urine. Both are effective. Probably the best method is to add good soil, preferably a clay based soil, to the heaps. This really seems to speed up the process, and it was an idea that I got from my research. Here are two links that discuss the use of clay to aid humus formation. They are a bit technical, but might be of interest to you.

http://mailman.cloudnet.com/pipermail/compost/2004-February/011737.html

http://www.ibiblio.org/steved/Luebke/Luebke-compost2.html

It is best to take the soil from ground that has not had much disturbance (digging/ploughing) and has a high humus content. If you already garden organically, particularly no-dig gardening, your own vegetable beds will be a great place to take some topsoil from.

Another way to speed things up, and get some really good fungi into the heaps is to collect some leaf litter from a well established woodland. I’m not saying that you need to take a bulldozer and scrape up a couple of tons, but a little here and there from as many different woods as you can, will get you a really good mix of fungi. Add some of this to your leaf mould heaps, and keep some for your first Compost Tea Brews.

Mixing and Matching

Once your heaps are going, you can move microbes from one heap to another simply by making a Compost Tea Brew, and then spraying some of the Compost Tea onto your various Compost heaps. This is a great way to get the composting process started, and it also speeds up the breakdown of materials, and increases worm activity in the heap. What’s really great is that all of the compost left in the filter at the end of the Compost Tea Brewing, can be put back into the heap. it’s still full of microbes.

Hot Composting

I don’t have anything against hot composting, particularly for producing Compost for my vegetable beds. My concern is that the high temperatures may be harming some of the beneficial microbes. With my Compost Tea, I don’t want to take any chances that I might be reducing the effectiveness of the Compost Tea.

I hope that this article has been of use to you, and I would be happy to answer any questions that you have, so please feel free to ask them, by posting a Comment.

BB

P.S. Check out the Sustainable Smallholding Website…